By Nicolás "Rapala" Undurraga - Cover photo: Francisco Velez @franciscovelezphoto - Video: @fotosmistico2021

We went to surf a right-hander that we have in the fifth region. The trip was super improvised, we saw the swell, I grabbed the gun that I had at a friend's house, the Arica, I hadn't used it for four years.

I saw a very good forecast, it said 4,5, with north swell and north wind and I made the decision to head there.

We arrived early, at dawn, and while I was looking around, I saw that people were starting to arrive. There were people from Pichilemu, and then Mati Guerrero motivated me and said: “Let’s go! We’re rowing in.”

I got my board ready and we headed in.

It was an incredible session, with some five-six metre right-handers that landed really well.

Then I got a right hand, the first one, I got it down really well, it wasn't the one in the set but I was positioned well, enough to gain confidence.

The second wave was a drop where I did a little airdrop and went over the edge. My leash broke. Thank God a motorbike rescued me and left me there on the rocks to go look for the board I had lost. There was a kid on the hill who found it. Incredible!

I checked the board, there was nothing, I changed the leash and paddled back in.

I was able to surf a couple more waves. There was one amazing one where I dropped it thinking I wasn't going to do it until I did.

It was a great experience, I was left with a great desire to continue and give it my all. Thanks to everyone in the area, to the locals for the good vibes and to keep going, I was left really motivated.