Cover photo by Hugo Silva/Red Bull Content Pool

For someone like Lucas Chumbo Chianca, who has surfed all the heavy waves in the world, to keep using the words “incredible” and “historic” in such a short interview, something very special must have happened.

This is clear to everyone, to those who were watching from the cliff of Nazaré or to those who followed it live or saw a clip on Instagram. But when someone who experienced it from the water, who has lived through so many heavy seas, says it, it has a special taste.

Below is a short interview with Chumbo Chianca, one of the swell surfers of the season, or of the decade or of the century in Nazaré.

 

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A post shared by Lucas Chianca "Chumbo" (@lucaschumbo) el 29's 2020 9 13: XNUMX PDT

How would you define what happened in these two days?
It was an incredible dream, a historic swell that will mark the history of Nazaré for its perfection, the quality of the waves, the size.

It was an unusual day, it was like everyone dreamed but more perfect, it was better than everyone dreamed; it will go down in history but also in our lives. Everyone did well, everyone caught giant waves, all the waves were giant.

"It was an atypical day, it was like everyone dreamed but more perfect, it was better than everyone dreamed; it will remain marked in history but also in our lives"

On Wednesday afternoon, when the sea was huge, there was a bit of frustration because you couldn't find the good ones. But today you redeemed yourself and caught some incredible waves. Tell us about how you experienced the process.
On Wednesday afternoon the sea was big but not gigantic and I surfed waves, high waves but nothing special and when I saw that the swell had slowed down I knew that the next day it was going to be gigantic. And that's what happened, we arrived and the sea was gigantic, on another level.

The day was Thursday, on Wednesday it got really big in the afternoon but what happened on Thursday surpassed what happened the previous afternoon.

Now that you've seen the images, which do you think was the biggest wave? Or at least give us a comment on what you could see on social media.
I don't know, I looked at all the pictures and they're all huge waves. Mine, Sebastian's, Kai Lenny's, Burle's, Andrew Cotton's, they all caught huge, incredible waves and made it worthwhile for that day.

I was very happy, me and my pilot Ian Cosenza, we were very happy. It was really amazing.

When you're surfing it, don't you notice how big it is when it's that big?
You can't really tell how big it is, it sure looks big but in reality it's really gigantic.

"You can't really tell how big it is, it sure looks big but in reality it's really gigantic"

Was the blow hard on the giant that ate you or was everything OK?
That wasn't me! That was Sebastian Steudner, my big one came out on top, thank God!

How did you celebrate the two historic days?
We celebrate this historic day with much gratitude, much affection and love, gratitude to the team at work. It is a day that is celebrated for what it was.

How historic do you think this swell was?
It was historic, it was one of the biggest, cleanest, most beautiful days… In my five-year conception in Nazaré, it was incredible.