Nicolas De Heeckeren: “I entered a trance and let myself be carried away by the purest feeling of gratitude.”
"When the wave came in, a surfer was already coming and I was talking further down watching how this guy was going to win, but he suddenly fell and I was just in time to turn around and dive in," the surfer said.
The talented Chilean goofy footer saw at this left point that the surfer who was getting the best fell in front of him and therefore the wave was left over for him.
The great thing about these waves is that the ride is so long that you can rebuild an entire wave from scratch even if you're a little further along in the lineup.
The video is the most compelling proof. On his Instagram, Nicolás said: "A beautiful wave the sea gave me." It could also be "a beautiful wave the sea gave me and the one who fell."
“This one is special because when the wave came in, a surfer was already coming, and I was chatting further down, watching how this guy was going to win, but suddenly the wave fell and I was just in time to turn around and dive in,” he said.
And she added: “At that moment, since I didn't have time to think, I felt like I entered a trance and let myself be carried away by the purest feeling of gratitude, which in fact I didn't remember the first tube until I saw the video. It was a very strange sensation, but at the same time very gratifying and special, since the state I entered from not having time to think was one of relaxation, fulfillment, and 100 percent natural and personal expression.”
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