On the best wave ever surfed at Jeffreys Bay
The importance of Tom Curren in the history of surfing, the magical art of making complicated things seem simple and selling them on Instagram
This week, dozens of images of supposedly historic waves at Jeffreys Bay were shared, and there was one that, with one coherent exception, the great Surf Splendor, was not published by the main surfing channels: The first one that Tom Curren surfed there, in 1992.
With a board he didn't know, on a wave he had just ridden, Curren perfectly read a wall that is not easy to set up, but not only that, everything he did on the wave was what only the most talented in their surfing imagination would have created.
“We knew Tom was coming and everyone was like, ‘Keep your cameras greased up and make sure they’re working because he’s coming and he’s going to be pumping,’” said Sonny Miller in a series created by Rip Curl, who filmed that wave and many of Curren’s while together they were making the brand’s famous saga called The Search.
The thing was that the swell came in, Tom arrived the next day, when he was feeling better, he got into the water and paddled a right hander from overhead to double overhead, a wave that in itself, beyond being a Jbay right hander, might not have been that special, but it had one of the best in history on top of it.
Curren came down a little behind, passed a couple of sections on high, came down, made a good bottom, well behind the breaking foam and carved radically on the lip.
After returning smoothly from the violent turn, he stretched his body and pumped stylishly on two occasions to make another bottom and only adjust the direction, subtly touching the outside edge with his right hand. There he let himself go well down and made a deep bottom turn that ended with another stylish, powerful and fast curve in the pocket.
He reached the bottom of the wave again and looked towards the lip, gauging the situation in a millisecond. He chose to do another deep bottom which he cut with a layback under the lip; he completed the maneuver and corrected his line once more, slowing down a bit and doing once more a catastrophic bottom, with elbow, open hand and forearm buried in the water, he rode up the wave and this time cut his course halfway through.
He saw the pipe coming. He positioned himself a little further forward on the board, stuck his right hand into the wall and the sections started to cover him… He came out and wasted no time in executing a powerful cutback that wasn’t so tight, to do another beautiful bottom turn, and enter, if you will, a little late into the second pipe.
With his hands out in front of him, his body curled up, as if straining to regain speed, Curren was left deep inside and, whoever hadn't seen the video, could have given him up for dead, but he quickly appears for three seconds standing with his body almost upright, back straight, coming out of the barrel.
The wave ends with a third tube from which he does not emerge, but everything had already been done, history had been written.
To this day, several of the world's best surfers say that this was the best wave ever surfed at Jeffreys Bay.
When it comes to talent in the world of surfing, that moment is marked as an absolute milestone in history. The wave was surfed in 1992 when there was little information about any wave, no videos, social media or anything like that.
The wave itself, which is 300 to 500 meters, has 800 options on which paths to take and 799 are wrong and Tom Curren, without knowing anything, took all the right ones.
One of Curren's many strokes of genius comes from what he demonstrated in that wave. With dry hair, without having stretched, without having done push-ups or games with balls or kettlebells, he went for it and achieved perfection.
This is why there are few icons, but it is very important: We must know how to give an iconic place to those who deserve it and not to the idiots who show nonsense on Instagram.
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