The Wave of Life by Othmane Choufani

He left Hawaii for his home in Morocco earlier than planned chasing the swell and found what he came for


Prominent Moroccan big rider Othmane Choufani was in Hawaii, riding big waves and enjoying the island heat when he noticed that things were about to get interesting back home.

He did not look to the side, he looked straight ahead and hurried back home. After several stops in two days of travel, he arrived in Agadir, greeted his parents and tried to sleep.

The next day he was riding one of the best tubes of his life and probably the biggest tube ever surfed in Morocco.

Excited, he emerged from the water and toasted with a local tea that he called "The Moroccan Jack Daniels."

Video: Amine Nader

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