The big wave of the month - Fran Morosini at home: “I haven't been so tense in the water for many years”
“A friend who was in Puerto and saw the photo told me: 'That's Puerto but in Uruguay',” says the surfer from La Paloma about this bombshell. Click here to read his story and that of the photographer.

The big wave of the month is brought to you by granola the great wave - Story by Fran Morosini
We left very early, at dawn, with Lucas Acosta. We arrived at the beach and spent about two hours looking at it because it was very big and bumpy, it didn't quite settle down.
More towards mid-morning we just got a message from the photographer Luis Pereira, from @fotosurfuy, asking if we could take a photo. We looked at each other and said: “Bo, come here now!”, as we were about to take the plunge.
We jumped in and I remember wishing Lucas good luck because the truth is that we were looking inward, we were alone and it was scary.
The thing about the sea that day was that it was very big, it took a long time and it was difficult to catch a wave, you spent a while inside waiting for it and that set just happened to fall on me while I was in the spot and well, what it also had was that I was 5'9 (laughs), so the drop was a bit complicated for me and I had to do the bottom very open.
"The other thing was that I was 5'9 (laughs), so the drop was a bit complicated for me and I had to do the bottom very open."
That wave opened up quite a bit later and I was able to surf it calmly.
"It was one of the series, a tremendous bomb, full of water, and I was able to take it with the board I had because I was right in the right spot, in the right place. A friend who was in Puerto and saw the photo, told me: 'That's Puerto but in Uruguay.'"
But more than anything it was the adrenaline of the drop, not knowing if I was going to do it or not.
It's been many years since I felt so tense in the water, that I didn't feel adrenaline and that thing of being focused all the time with my head on the moment, in the sea... We felt so tense in there.
The words of the photographer, Luis Pereira: "It was one of those days when people from outside were celebrating the waves because it was obvious that they were strong."
That day in May had not quite settled down and the conditions were difficult, but it was also noticeable that there were good waves.
Nobody jumped in. I met Fran and Lucas and we agreed that I would take photos of them, and I went there. They got motivated by the photo session and went into the water. But it wasn't easy, it was difficult to get in and after catching waves, getting back in was also complicated.
"Fran's wave was one of the series and I saw when he bottomed how big the wave was. Then I looked at the photo and was impressed with how big the wave was."
Fran took several waves, some tubes, not from the series because not all of the series were tubes but it was more massive, but he did take his tubes.
It was one of those days when people from outside were celebrating the waves because it was obvious that they were powerful.
Fran's wave was one of the series and I saw when he bottomed how big the wave was. Then I looked at the photo and I was impressed with how big the wave was. And he made it look like he was running half a meter.
Related Notes:
Through the air and around the edges: Fran Morosini's new video
14 September, 2020
A session of fun, well-formed and long waves in La Paloma, Uruguay
25 maneuvers in a single wave
2 September, 2019
In Chicama, of course. With the Brazilian Wesley Santos who says it was the longest wave of his life.
Natxo's wave, with friends
3 September, 2018
The Basque invited some of his discovery to his friends Aritz Aranburu, Adrián Fernandez and Aletxu Gironi
Fran Ferreras paying and collecting pipes in Puerto
June 27, 2019


















