Special coverage presented by Granolate, O'Neill Uruguay y Capi Bar - Cover photo: Video: @Rodaluy Text: Nahuel Cardona 

"I'd been planning the dive about three days before. I took the morning off work because the forecast looked good. I went all the way: I went to Garzón, then back and went to La Plage, but nothing was right for me. I ended up back in Montoya, and when I saw a train coming in with two people in the water, I changed as quickly as I could and jumped in.

There was a tremendous current, and you had to fight it all the time to stay in the right place. I rode several waves with tough tubes and drops, but couldn't find the way out. I also saw several friends hitting some big waves: Luisma, Chara, and Felipe Baru, who was doing some bombs.

I hooked that wave almost at the end of the run, already racing against the clock to get to work. I'd been paddling against the current for about 40 minutes to stay on the peak, my arms twisted into noodles, waiting for the right one. When it came in, I doubted I'd be able to ride it, but I put all my paddle in. I saw it was coming fast, with no time to think or adjust, so I decided to go straight in and grab the edge at the drop. Luckily, the fins held; I felt them about to slip. Then a beautiful brown cavern enveloped me.

At first, I thought I was too deep; I felt the foam ball underneath me in the first section, but I managed to pull through and hold the line. When I got out, I was so happy and surprised that I'd made it that I didn't even have time to celebrate. Obviously, after that one, I went back for more, because we all know that when you say "one more and I'm out" and you hit it, it's impossible to get out of the water.

In the end, I arrived 40 minutes late to work, but happy. I'm grateful for the session, which I think was one of the best in recent years: not only for the waves, but for the good vibes in the water, the excitement, the friends, and the smiles.