Presents Capi Bar - Story of the protagonist: Pancho Deal - Video by @nomadbythesea @indoframes @kaiquephoto

It was two days of very good waves. I hadn't caught them in the last two months with a southwesterly direction and a good wind, which is what breaks from the Office. The swell was predicted for HT, and it was filled with boats...

I watched it from the outside for a while, waiting for the tide to rise a little more, while having lunch at @labelle.hts in front of the wave with Iker and friends. It was slow, there was a lot of time, and a few sets of three to five good waves came in, but they took a while. From the outside, it didn't look big.

There were already about seven boats and a lot of people on land. Everyone was waiting for the tide to fill up a little more. I thought, "He's slow, he's caught a 5'11" and I'm going without a helmet to take on the Cage (the middle section that was coming in more consistently). As soon as I got in, he sent a big series, and that's when I realized I wasn't up to 5'11" or to be without a helmet, but I was already there.

I asked a couple of friends what board they were using, and they were all on big boards. I thought to myself, "I'll try it if it works for me. If not, I'll get out and change it. I took two, I got in late, they closed, and I got some good rolls, touching the reef a bit.

I immediately got out, grabbed a 6'4", put on my helmet, and headed straight for the Office. I waited almost two hours, stopping pumping for almost an hour at the Office. After a long wait, I had second place in the priority group at the peak with those who were always there, being friendly and respecting the turns of whoever got the good one.

Matty Hannon had first priority and scored a good one.

With the heat, we all started paddling inwards, and I opened up a little more than Matty, and during the stroke I asked him, "Matty, are you going? Matty?!" He looked at me and said, "No, too late," and immediately I turned around and went as fast as I could down the high line.

As soon as I stood up, my lip went up and I started to try to get through all the sections I could, there were people in the middle, but I had no choice but to go forward and there I went through sections and incredibly I came out, my ass broke, you tell me to do it again and I don't think I'll be able to do it haha.