Presents Capi Bar - Story by the protagonist: Diego Medina - Video by Alejandro Fuenzalida

Today I went surfing at 730:8 in the morning because the permit is until 30:1. We are in quarantine, in phase XNUMX. I went in early and there were a lot of waves but the conditions were not very good, with a bit of a north wind so the sea was a bit choppy.

I went in anyway, to do sports and train. I went in, there were about five people in the water and it was very busy. They came out with their series of about three and a half meters, I waited and waited, for about half an hour.

And at about eight in the morning, this wave came in with a very good wall, super projected, you could see that it was coming in super good shape, a little wrinkled.

I paddled with everything, with my 7'6, and I was able to make a good drop and establish a good line, and when I got to the bottom I got a super long wall, I entered a very long tube, with a lot of difficulty because the sea was kind of rough, so I was pulling like some steps. I stood firm and started to speed up inside the tube, I passed two or three sections and when I was about to get out I saw that it was going to close on me. So I just jumped out, stood firm and was able to get out.

I just grabbed that wave and got out, happy for that tube. I think the motivation of having gotten in early with a lot of energy was worth it and I was rewarded for that.