Tube of the month: Luisma Iturria finding his way out on what he called "a great day of surfing"

Last Monday on a beach break somewhere on the coast of his country; read the Uruguayan's story


Story by Luisma Iturria - Presents Capi Bar 

Monday was a surprising day for the sea. I wasn't expecting it, although the forecasts predicted waves, but since the previous day there wasn't a good sea to take into account, nobody expected that.

We were looking for the wave, talking to several friends who gave me reports of various places and it was difficult to find the right place that has good waves, none of the reports were excellent because the banks have not been that good, the winter has been kind of weak.

So we searched and searched and finally decided to go towards Rocha, where the wind blew and went east-northeast.

When we got there and saw the green water conditions, whales, the offshore wind ruffling, nobody in the water and a good, beautiful, intense sea, with waves that turned in both directions, a large but tremendous field.

Well, with Gustavo Strasser, with Chimpa, we didn't think twice, we grabbed our boards, ran into the water, Dani Monfort on camera and we had a complicated surf, because as I told you, it was a big court, peaks everywhere, we were alone and with a bit of current.

But it was totally worth it because there were spectacular waves that turned around in an impressive way, waves of six, seven feet came in face to face, some intense rights, the banks there were full of sand, then a wave would mark and it would bend, the wave would mutate, the truth is that there were waves where the water passed us, it caught us out of timing, out of shape, out of practice, it was the first important swell that came in, and it was great!

Living it from inside the water, being in that situation, at the same time I also took tremendous hits, tumbles, I was under the water for a while, waves caught me and fell on my head, they took the board out of my hands, they tumbled me, the series took me out, left me on the shore, but it didn't stop me from continuing to look for the good one.

There were waves that were tremendous and so good, so perfect that the desire to surf was stronger than the tiredness. It took hours in the water, paddling and looking for that epic wave that blows your mind, that makes you go in the tubes and enjoy it. In other words, it was all worth it, the early morning, not eating because we were in the water for hours, the endless search for good waves in Uruguay and all that. Luckily we were able to find the little spot and we enjoyed it.

It was a great day of surfing.

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