"Those moments when everything goes silent and you only hear the sea above you"

The story of one of the best surf sessions this year, by Pollo Vargas: “I felt that the ocean, in some way, was reminding me that silent work also has its reward.”


By Héctor Pollo Vargas - Cover photo: Screenshot from the video by @mmirandaescobar

Two days ago I experienced a session that for me marked the real beginning of this year.

I was at home and didn't think the sea would be that good. I knew it was "past its prime," that it didn't look very clean or particularly large. But my friend Miguel called me and said it was much better than it looked. Then I talked to Martín Fuenzalida and my cousin, and we decided to go to Punta de Lobos.

When we arrived, the scene was completely different: four- to five-meter waves, perfectly tubular, with no current, and that classic clarity rarely seen. I stood there for about 40 minutes, trying to figure out where the best position was and which wave was truly worth it.

They were very steep, very vertical. They weren't easy. In fact, they were difficult to grip, especially with long boards. You had to be very precise in the exact place and at the exact moment.

I was missing the four fins, and Martín lent me the ones I needed. I went down to get everything ready with my dad, who, as always, was there motivating me and giving me advice. That means a lot to me. The board I used is a 10'5" Marbella that I recently had made and am still testing, so it was also a challenge for the team.

The entry was clean, with no current, and I was able to cross easily. That gave me confidence. I took the first waves a little wider to loosen up, because it had been a while since I'd surfed big waves and I had that good feeling of nervousness that keeps you alert.

And then that wave came.

I was able to position myself well, cast the line exactly as I envisioned it, and connect with a deep, clean barrel. It was one of those moments when everything goes silent and all you hear is the sea above you. It was a very special feeling.

More than the size, it was what it meant to me. I haven't surfed much lately, but I've worked hard, trained a lot, and been consistent in the ocean in all kinds of conditions. I felt like the ocean was somehow reminding me that quiet work also has its rewards.

Living in Pichilemu and being able to surf waves like this, with few people around and surrounded by friends, is something I truly value. I left feeling adrenaline-pumped, but above all, grateful.

Today I'm focused on continuing to grow, train, and do things right, step by step. I'm open to adding people and brands who want to be a real, long-term part of this journey.

So far it's the best wave of the year for me, and one of the most special I've ridden in a long time.

Now it's time to keep going. Wave by wave.

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