The day of the year in Wilderness

Chronicle of a swell: All the energy of the expected swell materialized in an epic session on the legendary wave of the North Shore of the Atlantic


Cover photo: Carlos Cabrero and Cristian Rivera sharing a bomb while a couple paddle around trying not to be eaten by the beast. All photos except those mentioned by Ricardo Lucke. 

The long-awaited swell produced by Tropical Storm Leslie arrived with the force that was expected and brought out its best in this epic session that took place last Saturday and brought together the bombs and some of the best and most legendary surfers on the island.

“I went surfing in the morning and the waves had barely risen. Wilderness had its six-footer early but you could feel in the water that the waves were going to keep rising,” said the author of most of the photos from the session, Ricardo Lucke.

And he continued: “There was a lot of water and current.  By midday the waves were already bigger. We spoke with some friends from San Juan and they told us that the waves there were huge, because of the direction of the swell, from the NE, it was a sign that they were going to reach Aguadilla at any moment.”

“I went to eat and when I came back for the afternoon session I found these incredible waves. People were out with their eight feet and wearing life jackets.  Carlos Cabrero, Ale Moreda, Brian Toth, Otto Flores, Sebastian Soto, Kianni Iglesias and Cristian Rivera were the ones who stood out for me that afternoon," Lucke concluded.

Wilderness with a Waimea face. Ale Moreda got one of the swell bombs and it was one of the highlights of the session. "On Saturday, September 29, Seba Soto and I arrived from LA early in the morning with about four hours of sleep. We were looking for boards. We left the city at about 11:30 and when we arrived it was already solid. When I entered, the energy in the ocean was very strong! I just started to get back into surfing since I was working at FEMA after Hurricane Maria and I hadn't seen waves of that magnitude, I was scared!" said the Puerto Rican.
But he also had to pay. It happens if you're a go-getter like Alejandro Moreda. "But with the help of all the boyz psyching me up I got motivated to go for it. I'd never seen Wilderness so perfect as that afternoon! The ocean definitely won. The waves I saw were out of a dream, they looked so big and perfect. Thanks to Storm Leslie for the blessings. More to come, we're ready!" he added.
Otto Flores received the best 43rd birthday gift the sea could have given him: "It was my birthday and the gifts came in the form of waves. Three sessions, each one bigger than the other," said the Puerto Rican. He added that Wilderness on good days is a mix of Sunset and JBay.
Ricardo Villanueva was in the water all day and from there he saw the swell go from six to 10 feet plus. The wait and patience, as the photo shows, was worth it.
There were several youngsters in the session who showed good disposition on the bombs. Manny Valentin, 16, was one of them. Mia Calderon, Sage Katz, Kianni Iglesias, among others, also took part. Photo: Doug
A mix of Sunset and JBay, says Otto Flores, Wilderness is big, long and perfect. Photo: José Valentín
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