Weekly Editorial: Blessed Winter Surfing

A love that is reaffirmed and grows bigger year after year


The heat has its benefits, but nothing really inspires my love for surfing more than a good winter session.

I don't know whether I should say I've been lucky or unlucky to have largely escaped the winter in my home country of Uruguay, which is cold but has its great advantages.

I say this because work requires me to make some trips to the warmer weather, which makes it feel lighter, or warmer, but every time I go to the water in winter, I remember that it is my greatest love.

This isn't the first time I've written about this, and it certainly won't be the last. It's like I keep falling in love, more and more each year, with the same girl. It must be something that only happens to me with my kids, work, and winter surfing (I'm laughing as I write this).

A slight swell came in with an onshore wind, the middle of winter, really cold, with a temperature of around five degrees Celsius, a lower wind chill, freezing water, 4/3 and the same leaky boots that I always tell myself I'm going to change but never do.

I told myself I wouldn't jump into La Boya because everyone would be there. A friend had already told me it was one of the few places where you could salvage anything.

Seeing that everything was a bit choppy, I had no choice but to go check it out. Three people in the water were sharing overhead lefts, a little choppy, but consistent, and extremely fun.

A group was chatting outside the water, which had apparently just been emptied.

The sea was strong and energetic. Pretty good waves, frozen, but not very crowded.

I didn't hesitate for a second and immediately I was putting on the suit and the holey boots.

I arrived at the lineup, sat down in my spot, the last in the row, and greeted the band. Everyone was cool, or decent, I should say. A far cry from what happens in the fall, summer, and spring.

Zero posing, zero ego… It sounds exaggeratedly romantic, but I always think we're all surfing lovers, we love it so much that we do it even when it's freezing cold…

The good news is that they left right away. I had a moment with just one, and then I was left alone to be greeted by two more who had the same attitude: They waved and each went their own way, taking turns and each surfing their own waves.

I emerged from the water feeling happy. My heart was full… I reaffirmed once again that deep, deep love I have for winter surfing.

The best kind of surfing, the purest, the kind shared with those who truly want to surf and aren't into posing, the kind that hurts a little but is so enjoyable.

I left the beach taking this photo. In this world where people complain about being overcrowded, they broke the left wing all on their own with a sunset worthy of admiration.

Since I knew I was going to write this column, I waited to take a picture and left with a happy heart.

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